Surfing Cardigan Bay 060410

James Birt

 

Tom Fisher

Nature's forces at play-Ceredigion Heritage coast

Paddleboarding

Featured Surfer 'Guts'-Chris Griffiths

Photo Session 240706 Gower Reefs-Click photos to enlarge

Featured Surfers- Tom Perkins, Simon Tuckett, Al Jones

Caldey Island The Last Retreat

Three people, three waves per set . (Phil Holden 11.09.02)

After a millpond summer, what we didn't expect was to be surfing the first swell for 2 months on a beach off west Wales with only ourselves for company.Accessible by boat and with no resident surfers, it is not surprising really ...there's a good lefthand point break at low water but the beach itself is....' fast and bulbous.... also tapered'.

Returning to Fresh later that Eve this was the sight we were met with at Freshwater:

 

Vinnie

As if

Luke Cromwell

Rainbow Waves

Purrfection...

Y Bocs

Jamie Owen

There was a small flotilla jostling for position by the time we arrived but the push of the tide continued and some relentless sets of 5 - 6 foot were causing a little edginess in the line up .The crowd factor aside Dean Gough from Outer Reef Surf School free fell into his first wave. A tight tube and a power house cutback took him well down the line.

This wave is like no other in the U.K. The spit of rock on which the wave breaks extends out for several 100 yards before dropping off sharply to 18 metres and more.Approaching swells appear out of nowhere, double in size before exploding on the reef. With only a few feet of water beneath you ,and what seems like half the ocean behind you, the first drop is more a taste of the tropics and coral reef surfing than anything else.

 

Dean Gough

 

PORTHCAWL

 

The sight of clean 4-6 groundswell and a light north wind meant only one thing. At last ,with only a small tide running,here was a chance to catch Porthcawl Point at itís best. So it was no surprise to see half of the Gower regulars and the majority of the locals out as well. These included Greg Owen (see above), Simon Tucker, Brad Hockridge, Mat Stephens, Johnny James, Nick Lavery , Guts Griffiths and Rhino (see below). Surf Journalist Mike Kew from the States had also homed in on the point and we look forward to seeing his report in the Jan 2002 issue of Surfer Journal.

sh to high tide had provided some of the best waves and Nick was soon out and up for a coffee on the prom. Lo and behold the ESP was breaking too. We had really struck it lucky and could hardly believe our luck. Welsh National Champion Rhino was out making it look easy,also Greg Owen and Jem Evans were sharing some deep barrels but as the tide dropped the waves continued to hollow and it was too much for Nick who downed his drink ,covered the few yards back to the van and just made it into the water before some gnarly looking rocks drove everyone to shore.

ht was fading fast and beyond even the limits of black and white so I just had to sit back and marvel at the consistency of this bowling Welsh reef break with its unrivalled tube.

All photos on this page copyright Phil Holden/surfsup-mag.

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